Aqualung

UK's smallest car ferry

Day 2: Helmsdale to Inverness

It rained today. As in 'heavy rain' interspersed with 'less heavy rain' but nonetheless persistent. On top of yesterday's 4 layers I added a goretex top. If it gets any more bleak then I have one further top and then I'm done. Nothing daunted, we stood around until we were fairly soaked before setting off. Keeping warm is more important than being dry anyway.

We stopped in Golspie for a cuppa. Goodness know what the locals thought as we dripped through the door. Then we had to cross the Dornoch Firth, which has a cheery little sign saying 'Side Winds'- no kidding. Is there perhaps a Dept of Remedial Signs at the DOT? It should read 'Beware of Angry Cyclists that have been blinded by lashing rain that was blown at them sideways'. Of course, that would have to be in very small print.

At the far end of the Dornoch Firth we found solace in Tain, famous as the home of the Glenmorangie. For me it is now famous for the Sunflowers Cafe where we had lunch with magical properties. Suddenly the rain seemed more friendly - but it was going to take more than magic to get it to stop. It's still raining now.

10 miles past Tain is the Nigg ferry, which has space for just 2 cars. We enjoyed the 15 minute ride to Cromarty. Even though it rained.

Crossing the Black Isle was something I'd been looking forward to, sadly there were no views to be had as we climbed over the spine of the island. The feeling of remoteness was still there as our climb took us up into the cloudbase. Then it was the vicious A9'that felt otherworldly when we reached it well into the rush hour.

Just been for a lovely mixed grill at the Snow Goose. Bit of a food centred day, really. Apart from the rain. We should have ridden in wetsuits.

Today's ride 73 miles. No max speed cos the cycle computer's bust.